Sitting on the steps of the Palazzo Vecchio underneath one of the copies of Michelangelo’s David in the Piazza Signoria, I noticed it was a warm night in Florence.  It was September something, in 1986, and roadies were working like a hive of bees setting up equipment for a free concert that was going to be held the next evening. The piazza blazed with stage lights. That night my orientation to Florence was still not complete. I had only just arrived in the city and was still overwhelmed by it. That night it seemed that the entire town was making its evening passeggiata through the square. Something I did not know at the time, is that it happened every evening.

Looking up and over my shoulder from where I sat on the steps, I saw this view of the two kinds of stones of Florence. Marble carved into an exact copy of one of the most famous sculptures in the world, and the hewn, heavy, rusticated, stone of the palace.

passeggiata = From the verb passeggiare which means to take a walk. Every evening the Florentines take a walk through Florence and along the river before dinner.  This is a very Italian tradition and not limited to Florence. Many people are still out well into the night and you can find people walking arm in arm, greeting each other, gossipping, shopping, and thoroughly enjoying the weather.

rusticated stone = Stone that has a rough appearance to it. You will find rusticated stone throughout Florence.

Although coffee was a subject of Arabian lore as early as 800 BC, coffee first made its appearance in Italy around 1570 through the port of Venice. About one hundred years later the first caffès, short for caffèterias, opened there, then in Padua, Florence, and Rome. Some of the oldest caffès in Florence are on the Piazza Republica, while one of the most well known is the Caffè Rivoire on the Piazza della Signoria – which is actually more well known for its hot chocolate.

Coffee originated in Ethiopia, where the word for the plant is kaffa. From there it spread to Yemen, Arabia and Egypt, where it became a popular daily drink.

The Italians love their coffee, that’s for sure. Going into an Italian caffè for the first time can be a very confusing experience. Paying for the coffee before ordering is customary. Pay the cashier and then take the receipt to the bar. Tell the barista what you would like, he may ask you to see the receipt. Sitting at a table is more expensive than standing at the bar. You will see a lot of people run into a caffè in the morning for a shot of quick espresso before work. But taking the time out to sit at a table and watch life go by is well worth the expense. If you are sitting at a table, once your coffee is ordered, you are entitled to sit at your table until closing time, although, of course, once you leave the caffè you give up that right!

The name of the drink and the name of the place where it is drunk are spelled the same!

Here is a shortlist of some of the coffee based drinks you will find in an Italian caffè:

Caffè is the name for espresso in Italian caffès. It is shot of very strong intense coffee. Note the spelling – it is espresso, not expresso! This coffee is served in very tiny cups and for the novice just starting out – have one cup and see what happens. It’s very easy to have a caffeine overdose if you aren’t used to the strength.

Caffè Doppio is a double shot of espresso.

Caffè Stretto/Ristretto is more concentrated and made with less water than a normal espresso.

Caffè Lungo is a shot of espresso with extra water.

Cappuccino is espresso with steamed milk and drunk in the morning, but never after 11AM. The recipe was developed by the Capuchin monks and is named after them. The recipe usually calls for 1/3 caffè, 1/3 steamed milk, and 1/3 foam. A Cappucino is always served in a round bowl-like cup.

Caffè Corretto is espresso with a shot of alcohol like grappa or cognac.

Caffè Freddo is an iced coffee.

Caffè Latte is hot milk with coffee and served in a tall glass for breakfast. Ordering just a Latte will get you a glass of hot milk!

Caffè Macchiato is espresso marked with a drop of steamed milk.

Caffè Marocchino is espresso with a dash of hot milk and cacao/chocolate.

Granita di Caffè con Panna is an iced beverage made with ice shavings and topped with whipped cream

Caffè Americano is exactly what it sounds like, American-style coffee, but stronger – although weaker than espresso and served in a large cup.

Caffè Mocha is an American invention. Typically a Caffè Latte with chocolate added.

Mocha was a type of coffee that was imported from Yemen into Italy. Even though there was no chocolate in the coffee, it had a chocolate flavor.